Solera MallorcaPaving and exterior surfaces

Stamped concrete

Non-slip floors around the pool

27 August 2026 · 6 min read

What slip class 3 requires around a pool, how textures and additives achieve it, and how stamped concrete, microcement, natural stone and porcelain tiles compare.

Grey stamped concrete pool edge with a pronounced texture, wet from splashes

A floor around a swimming pool should be slip class 3 under the Código Técnico de la Edificación (CTE, the Spanish building code), the most demanding class, with a slip resistance above 45 in the pendulum test. The requirement applies to pools in public or shared use, such as those of hotels and of comunidades de propietarios (the owners' associations of shared developments), and it is the sensible reference for a private pool. Stamped concrete with a texture and an anti-slip additive reaches it, as do flamed or bush-hammered natural stone, porcelain tiles rated class 3 and textured microcement. No smooth, glossy surface reaches it, however good it looks when dry.

What the regulations say

Document DB-SUA 1 of the building code classifies floors by their slip resistance, measured with the pendulum friction test on a wet surface:

ClassSlip resistance (Rd)Where it is required
015 or lessNo requirement
1Over 15 up to 35Dry indoor areas with a slope under 6%
2Over 35 up to 45Wet indoor areas with a slope under 6%, dry indoor areas with a steeper slope, or stairs
3Over 45Wet indoor areas with a slope of 6% or more, wet stairs, outdoor areas, pools and showers

Pool areas include the surround, the showers and the floor of the shallow parts of the pool. The rule applies to public and shared buildings; in a single-family house it is not compulsory, but the reason it exists, wet bare feet on water, is the same in a house in Pollença as in a hotel in Alcúdia.

Tile boxes carry another scale: the German one, from R9 to R13, obtained on an inclined ramp with shoes. It does not translate directly into the CTE classes, although R11 usually matches class 3. There is also a third, from A to C, tested barefoot on a wet ramp and designed for pools: C is the most demanding. For a pool, ask for CTE class 3 or, failing that, barefoot class C.

How grip is achieved

Slip resistance depends on the microtexture, not on appearance. There are three ways to get it:

The texture of the material itself. Stamped concrete with a stone mould, flamed stone, porcelain with a relief. The texture breaks up the film of water under the foot.

Surface treatment. An acid that micro-etches the surface of porcelain or smooth stone, or sandblasting on concrete. These improve the class without changing the look, but they last a limited time where people walk.

An additive in the sealer. Polymer microspheres or fine aggregate mixed into the last coat of sealer, which leave a fine, rough surface. This is what is used on stamped concrete and microcement to reach class 3 without losing the finish. It lasts as long as the sealer, 2 to 4 years, and is renewed at each reseal.

Pool paving compared

PavingClass 3How it gets thereHeat in the sunBarefoot comfortMaintenance
Textured stamped concreteYesStone or slate mould plus additive in the sealerLow in light coloursGood; the texture does not dig inResealing with additive every 2 to 4 years
Plain stamped concreteOnly with treatmentPlenty of additive or a broom textureLow in light coloursVery goodAs above
Outdoor microcementYes, in textured systemsRough finish plus anti-slip sealerLow in light coloursGoodResealing every 3 to 5 years, more often at the pool edge
Flamed or bush-hammered natural stoneYesFactory finishLow in light limestone, high in slateDepends on the grain; coarse bush-hammering is uncomfortableWater-repellent treatment every 2 to 5 years
Polished or honed natural stoneNoWould need an acid treatmentAs aboveVery goodAs above, with a slip risk
Class 3 porcelainYesFactory reliefLow in light coloursGood with a fine relief; rough with a strong oneJoints; clean grout
Wood or compositeVariableGroovesHigh in dark woodGoodOil or annual cleaning

Stamped concrete on pool surrounds

It is the most common option for villas on the island, for three reasons: it is continuous, with no joints for algae to grow in and no pieces to lift; it adapts to any pool shape; and with a stone mould and an anti-slip additive in the sealer it meets class 3. The coping can be in the same concrete, with a rounded edge mould, or in stone.

What you should insist on is that the anti-slip additive goes in the last coat, over the whole surface and in a sufficient proportion. A glossy sealer without additive on a smooth mould is exactly what you do not want next to water. The page on stamped concrete for terraces and pool surrounds describes the moulds and sealers used in this case.

Microcement in pools

Microcement is applied both on the surround and inside the pool, with systems made for immersion. Its natural finish is smooth, so for a pool surround it is worked with a more open texture and a sealer with an anti-slip additive. It is a seamless, contemporary solution with two conditions: the base must be a stable slab laid to falls, and you have to accept more frequent resealing in the area that gets chlorine and wet feet every day. The guide on outdoor microcement sets out what it withstands and what it does not.

Natural stone

The island's stone, a light limestone, works very well with a flamed or fine bush-hammered finish. It stays cool, ages well, and stone coping is the traditional material. Its limits: it needs a periodic water-repellent treatment so that it does not stain, the joints need upkeep, and a polished piece on a pool edge is slippery. Sealing and impregnating stone is part of its normal maintenance.

Comfort and heat

A floor can be class 3 and still unpleasant: coarse bush-hammering or porcelain with a strong relief hurts the feet and holds dirt. The balance lies in fine-grained textures. As for heat, on a pool surround in July the colour matters more than the material: any dark surface burns, and any light one can be walked on. Choosing sand, bone or light grey is the most effective step you can take.

When to call a professional

Slip resistance cannot be judged by eye: it is measured. If the pool is in public or shared use, the surround paving must prove class 3 with a test or the technical data sheet of the complete system, sealer included, and it is best for the company that installs it to handle this. In a private house, when the existing floor is slippery, there are three routes: an anti-slip treatment on what is there, a reseal with additive if it is stamped concrete or microcement, or a new floor. Deciding which one takes a look at the floor, its material and how it drains.

FAQ

Questions

Something else? Ask us when you request a quote.

What does anti-slip C3 or class 3 mean?

It is the most demanding slip resistance class in the Spanish building code (CTE): a slip resistance above 45 in the pendulum test on a wet surface. It is required in outdoor areas, showers and pools in buildings in public use. The notation C3 is what ceramic tile manufacturers use for the same class.

Which is more slip resistant, C1 or C3?

C3. The scale runs from class 0, with no requirement, to class 3, with the most grip. A C1 tile is for dry indoor areas; a C3 tile is for outdoor areas, showers and pools. If the box says R11 or higher on the German scale, that usually equates to class 3, but the right thing is to ask for the CTE class or barefoot class C.

Is stamped concrete non-slip enough for a pool?

With a textured stone or slate mould and an anti-slip additive in the last coat of sealer, yes, it reaches class 3. Plain stamped concrete, or stamped concrete sealed with a glossy sealer without additive, is slippery when wet. The additive lasts as long as the sealer, 2 to 4 years, and is renewed at each reseal.

How can a slippery pool floor be made safe?

It depends on the material. On porcelain or smooth stone, an acid treatment that micro-etches the surface is applied, and it lasts from one to several years depending on foot traffic. On stamped concrete or microcement, the floor is resealed with an anti-slip additive. If the paving is also worn out, a new floor with the right class from the start is usually the better investment.

Which pool floor stays coolest?

A light-coloured one, whatever the material. Light limestone, off-white porcelain, and stamped concrete or microcement in sand or bone stay walkable in high summer. Slate, dark wood, dark grey concrete or anthracite porcelain burn at midday. A matt or satin finish also helps compared with gloss.

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